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GuildwoodVillage Locksmith Pros
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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Scarborough Village
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Scarborough Village

Change or rekey · Scarborough Village

Deadbolt Installation in Scarborough Village

You bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list.

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In plain words

Deadbolt installation puts a solid bolt lock on a door that either has none or has one that is past its useful life. Unlike the spring latch in a knob or lever, a deadbolt is a straight bar of metal that only moves when the key or thumb-turn moves it, so a card slipped into the gap or a shove against the door does nothing. The locksmith bores the door if needed, fits the bolt and cylinder, cuts a proper pocket in the frame and secures a reinforced strike with screws long enough to reach the framing. You are left with a door that locks with a firm, full throw.

Sound familiar?

You bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list. The door is now open and the box is on the counter.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap and glasses holding a steel latch plate at the edge of a black door beside a deadbolt. — Scarborough Village
Technician holding a small key fob at a bench with a key-cutting machine, loose keys, and a motorcycle and scooter behind. — Scarborough Village
  1. What the door is made of

    The first thing the locksmith reads is the door itself, because it decides how the holes get cut. A solid wood slab in a century home bores cleanly but can split at the edge if the mortise is rushed. A steel-clad insulated door has a thin metal skin over foam, sometimes with a wood block at lock height, and needs a metal-cutting hole saw run slowly. Fibreglass behaves like a hard plastic and chips if the bit grabs. Thickness matters too: most exterior doors are 44 mm, some older ones 35 mm, and the deadbolt's screws and collar have to suit that. Ten seconds with a tape and a knuckle on the face answer all of this.

  2. Setting a strike that reaches the framing

    A reinforced strike or strike box is centred over the pocket, squared to the edge of the jamb, and its outline is scored and chiselled to a depth that leaves the plate flush. Pilot holes are drilled, and the two holes nearest the door stop take 75 mm screws that pass through the jamb and the shim space into the stud behind, with shorter screws in the remaining holes. The long screws are driven by hand for the last turns so the heads seat without crushing the jamb. Where the jamb is thin or has been split by an earlier attempt, a full-length jamb reinforcer is fitted under the strike instead.

  3. Ready for a smart lock later

    Because the door was prepared to the standard bore and backset, it suits many future options, though the model chosen later still sets its own bore, backset and thickness requirements. Keypad and app-controlled deadbolts fit the same 54 mm cross bore and the same edge bore as the mechanical lock fitted today, so upgrading later means swapping the hardware, not cutting the door again. The backset and bore measurements are written on the packaging left with you. If you want to think about a keypad down the road, ask the locksmith which models suit the door thickness and whether a backup keyed cylinder is worth having for the one day the batteries are flat.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Boring jig and 54 mm hole saw

  • Manufacturer's bore template

  • Sharp chisel and mallet

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • Reinforced strike plate

Technician holding a steel deadbolt to the round bore in a white door, with an open tool bag on a dark mat. — Scarborough Village

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Strike and frame reinforcement

    A reinforced strike with long screws is standard; a full-length jamb reinforcer, a strike box or repairs to a split jamb after a forced entry are extra items quoted on their own.

  2. Non-standard bore or backset

    Older doors with a small cross bore, an unusual backset or a mortise lock case need adapting or filling before a modern deadbolt fits, and that preparation is quoted before work begins.

  3. Travel to the property

    Distance and access are part of any call-out: a house on a suburban street and a rural property down a long road involve different driving time, and the quote says so.

What to have ready

  • Has the door or frame ever been forced, or are any screw holes stripped?
  • Does anyone in the household have trouble with small knobs or stiff thumb-turns?
  • Would you like a keyed deadbolt, a keypad, or a smart lock you can control from a phone?
Call (289) 800-2382

Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
The door has to be pulled before the old bolt will lock. Will a new one fix that?

The new bolt will only lock as smoothly as the door and frame let it, so the locksmith deals with the cause as part of the installation. A door that has sagged on loose hinges gets longer hinge screws or a shim, thick weatherstrip is trimmed, and the strike is set from the bolt's actual position with the door closed. The pocket is bored deep enough for a full throw. Afterwards the bolt should slide with fingertip effort.

Will drilling a new deadbolt damage my steel or fibreglass door?

Not when it is done for that door. Steel-clad doors are cut with a fine-toothed hole saw run slowly through the skin, guided by a jig so the saw cannot skate on the smooth face, and finished from both sides so each skin stays clean. Fibreglass is scored first so the surface does not chip. Shavings are vacuumed from the foam core, and the edge is finished with a collar or plate suited to the stile inside.

Does a deadbolt work with a storm door or screen door?

It does, with one check: the thumb-turn and the outside cylinder have to clear the storm door when it closes. Most storm doors leave enough depth, but a low-profile deadbolt trim is chosen where the gap is tight. The storm door's own latch is separate and does not replace a bolt on the main door, since a screen frame gives little resistance on its own.

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Deadbolt Installation near you

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