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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Toronto
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Toronto

Change or rekey · Toronto

Deadbolt Installation

You bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list.

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In plain words

Deadbolt installation puts a solid bolt lock on a door that either has none or has one that is past its useful life. Unlike the spring latch in a knob or lever, a deadbolt is a straight bar of metal that only moves when the key or thumb-turn moves it, so a card slipped into the gap or a shove against the door does nothing. The locksmith bores the door if needed, fits the bolt and cylinder, cuts a proper pocket in the frame and secures a reinforced strike with screws long enough to reach the framing. You are left with a door that locks with a firm, full throw.

Sound familiar?

Someone tried the door last winter. The frame took it, but the strike plate is bent, one screw hole is stripped, and the bolt sits in the pocket at a slight angle. It still locks, and it still bothers you every night.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Technician in a cap and glasses holding a steel latch plate at the edge of a black door beside a deadbolt.
Technician holding a small key fob at a bench with a key-cutting machine, loose keys, and a motorcycle and scooter behind.
  1. The frame behind the strike

    A bolt is only as good as what it throws into, so the jamb gets a hard look before anything is ordered. The locksmith checks whether the jamb is wood or steel, whether it is backed by solid framing at lock height or by a gap of shims and air, and whether earlier screws have torn out or been stripped. A jamb that flexes under a palm tells its own story. Where a strike has been fitted before, the old pocket is examined for depth and position, since a shallow or offset pocket is the usual reason an existing deadbolt feels stiff. This check decides between a plain strike, a reinforced strike with long screws, or a full-length jamb reinforcer.

  2. Fitting the bolt and setting the backset

    The bolt assembly slides into the edge bore with the faceplate set the way its maker marks, commonly the word "top" facing up. Most residential bolts adjust between 60 mm and 70 mm by twisting or sliding the faceplate, and the locksmith sets it to the backset measured earlier so the tailpiece from the cylinder lands in the centre of the bolt's cam. The bolt is secured with its two short screws, and the locksmith works it in and out by hand to feel that it runs freely through the door without rubbing on the bore. On an insulated door a round drive-in collar may replace the flat plate where the edge is too thin to mortise.

  3. Looking after it through the seasons

    A deadbolt asks for very little, and most of it happens twice a year. In spring and again in autumn, throw the bolt with the door closed and notice whether it still slides in freely; wood doors swell in humid summers and shrink in dry winter air, and the first sign is a bolt that needs the door pulled before it will lock. If so, a small strike adjustment puts it right. Give the bolt and keyway a puff of whatever lubricant the lock's own maker specifies, often dry PTFE or graphite, since some cylinders are serviced with oil instead. Wipe salt off the outside trim after a slushy week so the finish stays bright.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Boring jig and 54 mm hole saw

  • Manufacturer's bore template

  • Sharp chisel and mallet

  • Jamb reinforcer

  • Reinforced strike plate

Technician holding a steel deadbolt to the round bore in a white door, with an open tool bag on a dark mat.

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Door and hinge corrections

    A sagging door, loose hinge screws or thick weatherstrip are put right before a bolt is fitted, and that adjustment is quoted as its own line rather than folded into the lock.

  2. Grade and type of deadbolt

    A builder-grade bolt, a residential model with a high security grade, and a heavy commercial-pattern deadbolt sit at different points in the hardware part of the quote, and the locksmith explains the differences.

  3. Number of doors

    One front door is the simplest case. Front, back, side and garage-to-house doors done in one visit share the travel and setup, so the per-door figure usually eases as the count rises.

What to have ready

  • Has the door or frame ever been forced, or are any screw holes stripped?
  • Does anyone in the household have trouble with small knobs or stiff thumb-turns?
  • Would you like a keyed deadbolt, a keypad, or a smart lock you can control from a phone?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
The door has to be pulled before the old bolt will lock. Will a new one fix that?

The new bolt will only lock as smoothly as the door and frame let it, so the locksmith deals with the cause as part of the installation. A door that has sagged on loose hinges gets longer hinge screws or a shim, thick weatherstrip is trimmed, and the strike is set from the bolt's actual position with the door closed. The pocket is bored deep enough for a full throw. Afterwards the bolt should slide with fingertip effort.

Will drilling a new deadbolt damage my steel or fibreglass door?

Not when it is done for that door. Steel-clad doors are cut with a fine-toothed hole saw run slowly through the skin, guided by a jig so the saw cannot skate on the smooth face, and finished from both sides so each skin stays clean. Fibreglass is scored first so the surface does not chip. Shavings are vacuumed from the foam core, and the edge is finished with a collar or plate suited to the stile inside.

Does a deadbolt work with a storm door or screen door?

It does, with one check: the thumb-turn and the outside cylinder have to clear the storm door when it closes. Most storm doors leave enough depth, but a low-profile deadbolt trim is chosen where the gap is tight. The storm door's own latch is separate and does not replace a bolt on the main door, since a screen frame gives little resistance on its own.

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