Change or rekey · West Hill
Lock Replacement & Upgrade in West Hill
The brass handleset has gone blotchy and green where the winter salt reaches it, and the coating on the deadbolt is lifting in flakes.
In plain words
After a break-in or an attempt, the door tells a story, and the new hardware should answer it. Splintered wood around the strike means the jamb gave before the lock did, so the repair pairs a heavier deadbolt with a reinforced strike and 75 millimetre screws that reach the framing behind the jamb. A bent bolt or cracked housing is replaced with a graded deadbolt whose bolt has a hardened core. A knob lock that was bumped or forced is swapped for a set with better pins. The aim is a whole opening that resists force, not merely a shinier lock.
How the visit goesThe brass handleset has gone blotchy and green where the winter salt reaches it, and the coating on the deadbolt is lifting in flakes. It still locks, but it looks tired beside the fresh paint on the door.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
The rest of the openings
One failing lock is often the loudest of several, so the locksmith takes a short tour. The back door, the garage man-door, a basement walkout, a sliding patio door and a storm door all count, and so does the door from the garage into the house, which is often the lightest lock on the property. Each is noted for grade, condition and whether it has a deadbolt at all. You are not obliged to do them all at once; the value of the tour is a clear list ranked by what matters most, so the first replacement goes where it makes the largest difference.
Keying the new locks to one key
New cylinders arrive on random keys, so the locksmith pins them alike on site when you want one key for the house. Each cylinder is removed, the plug slid out on a follower so the springs stay put, and the bottom pins replaced to match a single new key. Existing cylinders that are staying are repinned the same way. Every key is then cut from the new combination, tried in every lock it should open, and any that drag are recut rather than handed over. The result is one key for the front, back and garage doors, and a clear count of how many exist.
A clear plan for the remaining doors
Most households do not replace every lock in one visit, and you leave with a short list of what is left, in order of importance. Typically the front door and the garage-to-house door come first, then the back and side doors, then the patio slider and interior sets. Because the key plan has been settled, any lock added later can be pinned to the same key, so the house stays on one key as the work continues. Finishes and styles are recorded so future hardware matches. The first visit sets the standard; the rest of the house can follow when it suits you.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Cylinders, plug follower and pinning kit
Chisels, mallet and hand screwdrivers
Boring jig and hole saws
Knob or lever entry set
Manufacturer-approved cylinder lubricant
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Condition of the old hardware
Hardware that comes off cleanly is one thing; painted-over trim, seized or stripped screws and a cylinder that has to be drilled out add time before the new lock can go on.
Number of doors
One back door is a small visit; the front, back, side, garage man-door and patio slider together are a longer one, though several doors done at once share the travel and setup.
Door material and thickness
Wood, steel and fibreglass doors are drilled and fitted differently, and a door thicker than the standard 45 millimetres needs extension parts, so the door itself shapes part of the quote.
What to have ready
- Can you photograph each lock from outside, inside and along the door edge?
- Do you own the home, or rent it with the landlord's agreement to change locks?
- How many keys does the household need, and should copying be restricted?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsShould I rekey my locks or replace them?
Rekey when the hardware is sound and the problem is the key: a lost copy, a move, or too many keys for one house. Replace when the mechanism itself is worn, the housing or bolt is damaged, the grade was never suitable for the entrance, or you want a different function, finish or a keypad. Many visits do both, keeping good locks and rekeying them while replacing the tired ones, all to one key.
How do I look after a new lock so it stays smooth?
Very little is needed. Whatever lubricant and interval the cylinder maker specifies, worked into the keyway with a few turns of the key, keeps the pins free; using the wrong product collects grit instead of helping. Wipe salt off exterior hardware during winter melts. Snug the hinge and strike screws each spring and fall as the door moves with humidity. Cut spare keys from a crisp original rather than a worn copy.
My old house has a mortise lock. Can it take modern hardware?
Often the original case can be kept and given a new cylinder and strike, which keeps the period look and the old door intact. Where the case is beyond service, a filler or conversion plate covers the mortise pocket and lets a cylindrical deadbolt or knob set be fitted without cutting into the door's stile. The locksmith looks at the door before recommending either path, since old doors vary a great deal.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationYou bought a keypad deadbolt online and pulled the old one off, only to find the hole in the door is a different size and the bolt latch sits at a backset the new kit does not list.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceThe brass knob on the front door of your century home turns, but nothing happens on the other side.
- Smart Lock InstallationThere are four copies of the front-door key floating around: one with the cleaner, one with a neighbour, one on a hook at your parents' place, and one you honestly cannot account for.